The holidays are coming and for those in Puerto Rico, it means indulging in the traditional meal of Lechon Asado or roasted pig. There’s no need, however, to wait for a special occasion. When visiting the island, make a culinary road trip to a town dedicating itself to all things pork. It’s a place where the art of cooking traditional food is meant to be shared with others.
The barrio of Guavate, in the east-central hills of Puerto Rico, revolves around pork – all year round. Crispy skin, well-seasoned and brown. Smoky meat, moist and juicy. Is your mouth watering yet? Did I forget to mention the whole seasoned pig is roasted on a spit, over an open fire?
Getting to Guavate is part of the adventure. Route 184 winds through the verdant Sierra De Cayey Mountains. The journey? Snake-like roads, barely wide enough for two cars, sharp bends, steep-sided valleys, and densely blanketed jungle foliage. Better known as the Pork Highway, or La Routa de Cerdo, the smokiness of roasting pigs, pounding salsa music, and couples dancing in the street make this a cultural destination like no other.
Golden lechon, proudly on display in the front windows of the lechoneras, beckon long lines of hungry customers waiting their turn to be served. Lechonera Los Pinos – one of the many open-air eateries – with its tin roof and cafeteria-style service – is my favorite.
I munch on a crispy piece of skin, the best part. Several couples jumped up to dance salsa. This place does not disappoint. I ate and ate some more. So good. I’m glad I didn’t have to wait for Christmas. Go on a Saturday or Sunday to get the full experience. Tradition, culture, family, and food. It’s what Puerto Rico is all about.
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